Attention Troubled Pet Owners: ....
What is Training?

There are multiple meanings to the term "training." It's important to understand that when deciding what you need to do with your dog. Here I offer my distinctions:

First, there is "behavior training." This is the kind of training in which a dog is taught to be a "good citizen." Typically this includes housetraining, good behavior around other people and dogs, reasonable leash manners and other small things that make a dog a much more pleasant companion. A well behaved dog attracts no special notice from the public (aside from amazing some with their good manners).

There is "obedience training," which is generally teaching the dog how to perform specific activities. This can include traditional "obedience" exercises such as heeling. The emphasis here is on prompt and precise performance. While there can be many overall benefits to such training, the training is usually for the training's sake and not necessarily to improve the dog's behavior. Dogs that have been obedience trained will perform specific tasks when their owners ask them to do so. (And as a matter of fact, some obedience trained dogs may well behave poorly; an excellent herding dog that nonetheless barks quite a bit for no apparent reason would be an example.)

"Activity training" refers to training for specific activities -- this includes hunting, herding, Search and Rescue, lure coursing -- any of a myriad number of activities designed to showcase the abilities of the dog and his handler, particularly in activities for which the dog has been bred to do. These days, such activity also includes "sports" such as frisbee, flyball, agility and so on.

Of course the lines tend to blur between all of these distinctions. A certain amount of obedience training will help with behaviors. For example a dog that is heeling will not pull on the leash. Still you want to keep this in mind when selecting a training class so that it best matches your needs. For many pet owners, the behavior oriented classes are the best way to learn how to understand and control your dog. For those of you who want to enjoy a sport or compete in an activity with your dog will need to move along to more complex training.

You need to be aware of whether your dog needs behavior modification (where you will have to find out the underlying reason why your dog digs and not just put chicken wire over everything) or obedience training (to understand commands). Certainly, the two may be related: a dog that digs because it is bored may become less bored with obedience training and stop digging. It is important, however, to understand that the dog stopped digging because it was no longer bored than because it now knows how to heel. You will need to modify your approach, or select a trainer to help you, with behavior vs. training in mind.

So much for the type of things being taught... another factor to consider is that there are many methods for teaching any of these!
Help! Which one is the right one?

There really is no right or wrong. There are methods that are more effective under certain circumstances than others. Things to take into consideration when choosing the most effective method for you and your dog include: your personality, your dog's personality, your goals, your abilities as a trainer, and your experience as a trainer.

For example, if you are not happy with a particular method of training, for whatever reason, then it is unlikely you and your dog will do well with this method. Your dog will pick up on your reluctance and either share your dismay or take advantage of the situation to do as he pleases.

If your dog is the strong, take charge type, a method that does not deal with this trait will result in his walking away with the training sessions, getting very little done. Conversely, if your dog is very sensitive, there may be a variety of methods you can use so long as you are very careful about how you correct him. Or, a very submissive dog may need a particular method that emphasizes learning something new very thoroughly so that they may be as confident as possible when doing it. You have to observe your dog closely and figure out what his strengths and weakenesses are.

Your own abilities as a trainer come into play, as well. Some people have a natural sense of timing and an almost instinctive understanding of what their dog is thinking and how to react to it. Most people do not have this ability but can learn it to some degree over time. Others just do not. Recognizing your particular strengths and weaknesses will let you use each more effectively. Another ability some people seem to just have, others can develop, etc. is the ability to "read" a dog; that is correctly guess what the dog is thinking or feeling during training. This ability is valuable as it allows you to make appropriate adjustments on the fly to increase the effectiveness of your training.

Some methods are very effective but can be abused if the wrong person uses them. For example, the Koehler method of dog training worked very well on many dogs, in the hands of its originator. Koehler reportedly had an astute sense of timing and a keen awareness of how to present something fairly to a dog, but the "Koehler Method" as applied by others was so often abusive that today this method of training dogs is in disrepute.

Obviously, therefore, a good trainer is one who helps YOU figure out how to train your dog. A good trainer helps you learn to observe your dog for important clues to his behaviors and actions. A good trainer watches you and your dog work together and helps you learn where you are letting your dog down. A trainer's job, in short, is to teach you to become a trainer of your own dog. It is not a trainer's job to teach your dog. Typically, you only see your trainer for one hour a week. Training requires short, daily sessions. YOU are the one training your dog. (Sending a dog away to be trained is a separate consideration, with its own set of potential problems.) A good trainer has several methods under their belt and helps you figure out which ones work best with your dog.

Don't worry, there are some constants in dog training. Consistency and Fairness.
Theory of Learning

Let's start off with an examination of current theories behind learning. Most training methods actually use a little of everything even if they are weighted toward one method or another. And some teaching methods are actually making use of the same principles even if they appear to be widely different. So it's worth going over this.
Classical Conditioning

The principles of classical conditioning were worked out early in this century by Pavlov, and thus is also called Pavlovian conditioning. In the original experiments, a bell was rung, and the subject (as it happens, a dog) was given food; eventually, the dog began to salivate on hearing the bell, apparently anticipating the arrival of the food. This is pure stimulant-response stuff, since the signal (the bell) always comes before the reinforcement, and the dog doesn't do anything to make the bell ring.

So we start with:

1. trainer rings bell (stimulus)
2. dog gets food (reinforcement)

And end up with:

1. trainer rings bell
2. dog drools (response)
3. dog gets food

How can this be used? A great way to use classical conditioning is to teach the dog secondary rewards. Let's say you want to use a particular word or even a particular sound (such as a click) as a reward just because it is simpler than whatever your dog's best primary reward is. So train your dog by saying the word or making the sound and then treating him with a primary reward. He'll start to associate the two quickly and your alternative will become a suitable interim reward for your dog. You'll need to refresh the association from time to time, of course, but it does expand your possible repertoire for telling your dog "You done good!"

If you're observant, you'll also notice that most dogs are classically conditioned. If you say "Sit!" and they sit, that is a stimulus- response sequence no matter how the sit itself was taught.
Operant Conditioning

B.F. Skinner outlined the principles of what he termed "operant conditioning." In contrast to classical conditioning, in operant conditioning the reinforcement cycle starts with some action on the part of the trainee (in Skinner's language, the operant). Operant conditioning is therefore always dependent on behavior, whereas classical conditioning is not. We have:

1. dog does something (operant behavior)
2. dog gets food (positive reinforcement)

Under this theory, if we control which behaviors are reinforced, we should be able to get the dog to offer those behaviors more often. If the dog gets good stuff in association with a particular behavior, he's likely to repeat it; if something bad happens, he's less likely to repeat it. In practical training terms, this means that if Andy picks up his dumbbell (step 1), Andy gets some turkey (step 2); if he doesn't, he doesn't get the turkey. The result should be that in the long run, Andy will grab the dumbbell eagerly, even if he isn't a natural retriever.
Combining elements of each

In contemporary dog training, a lot of attention is paid to operant conditioning -- "clicker training" is nothing more or less than the real-world application of one small part of Skinner's research. But classical conditioning is almost always present, and should be kept in mind: think about the dog who hears the bell -- his drooling represents the kind of happy anticipation that we want in a working dog. Classical conditioning, in its practical application, is all about training for attitude. If he associates good stuff (positive reinforcement) with training situations (think of that as the bell ringing) he'll show the same kind of eagerness that you'd expect if you extrapolate from Pavlov's droolers. In addition, even with operant conditioning on a dog, you will eventually associate a command with the behavior, so that you can elicit the bahavior from a stimulus! Such a sequence would be:

1. dog offers behavior (say a sit)
2. dog is rewarded
3. cycle continues until dog continually offers behavior
4. trainer now says "sit"
5. dog sits
6. dog is rewarded

which combines elements of both operant and classic conditioning.
Rewards and Corrections

Keep these firmly in mind:

* A REWARD results in an increase in the selected behavior.
* A CORRECTION results in a decrease in the selected behavior.

Well that seems obvious enough, why did I bother putting those down? Because all too often, obvious as they may be, an astonishing number of people ignore them. How many times have you seen someone call their dog over and over and over again while the dog blithely ignores them? How many people wind up automatically rewarding their dog all the time until they find that the dog is either bored and wanders off, or won't do a thing unless the food is held in front of them? How many people smack their puppies when he soils in the house but never wind up with a housetrained dog?

Let's examine each of these scenarios in detail. The person who calls their dog repeatedly without doing anything is in fact teaching their dog that the "Come" command is meaningless. The dog is neither being rewarded for the correct behavior nor being corrected for the unwanted behavior. Therefore "Come" has no particular meaning for this dog.

If you consistently reward the dog no matter how he performs the selected behavior, you will have two things happen. First, the behavior will never improve as the dog has no feedback on which is "better". Second, the dog learns that he always get rewarded, so the incentive to keep working (unless the dog is very food motivated) will decrease. Or, if the dog is strongly food motivated, he may flat out refuse to do anything the moment he realizes that he will not get food. In this latter case food has stopped being a reward and is now an entitlement and no longer will increased selected behavior.

A puppy that is smacked for soiling in the house has no way of associating the correction with the action, particularly if it happens well after the act. Furthermore, hitting a dog is interpreted by the dog as aggressive rather than corrective and so will not reduce the selected behavior.

Back to rewards. Rewards should be given in such a way as to increase the behavior in question. This means, to begin with, that it should be something your dog enjoys and is motivated by. For some (many) dogs, food will do. Toys, squeakies, tug toys, tennis balls, are often good bets. A few dogs seem to be motivated by verbal praise, although to be honest, not so many as people would like to think. In most cases dogs learn to accept verbal praise as a secondary reward, through association with a primary reward. You can also use multiple reward methods, especially if that interests your dog.

(A primary reward is something that is inherently rewarding to your dog -- food, petting, toys, etc. A secondary reward is something that the dog learns is a reward. For example "Good Dog!", a click, clapping. The technical term for a reward is positive reinforcer.)

When you reward a dog, it should be directly associated with the selected behavior. A reward is ineffective if you apply it at the wrong time. However, the most common problem with rewards is that people will inadvertantly reward a dog for unwanted behaviors. Here is an example: Your dog growls or barks when he sees other dogs. Since you think he is afraid, you pet him to calm him down. "It's OK," you say. "Nothing bad is going to happen." OK, so what happened? The dog growled, you rewarded him. He's no dummy; he'll growl again in the hope of a reward next time.

Corrections are equally full of pitfalls. First of all, what constitutes a correction? That's even more difficult to answer than for rewards. For some dogs, the tone of voice will do it, for others they'll never notice it. Many typical corrections are really secondary (eg, learned) corrections. And, many typical corrections really don't do anything other than make the dog afraid of you, or, when applied inconsistently, cause the dog to lose trust in you. Here is another classic example. Your dog is on the far edge of a field, and you call him. He doesn't come. You call him again. He doesn't come. No matter how often you call him, he doesn't come, so you march over and start to correct him. Or, he finally comes over and by this time you're so mad you correct him. So what happens? In the first instance, the dog may well have no idea what you're mad about. If he's never learned the "come" command (even if you think he knows it) then going over and popping him a couple of good ones will teach him that it's really bad when you go near him! If he did come over to you and you popped him a good one, what do you think he'll remember next time you call him to come? That's right, you just applied a correction to a behavior (coming to you) in order to decrease it!

People very frequently misuse rewards and corrections in this way because many people seem to think that dogs really do know which are good and bad behaviors and will correctly associate one behavior (out of several) with the punishment. This simply is not the case. Dogs will associate what they most recently did with the correction or reward.
Comments on Training Methods

As I've pointed out, there are a number of different training methods available. None of these methods are perfect and none are guaranteed to work on your dog (regardless of what it says on the cover).

People frequently disagree over which methods are "good" and even which are "best." This kind of argument is fairly pointless, as the effectiveness of each training method is subjective. Find one that works for you and don't worry about criticisms. On the other hand, suggestions to help overcome specific training problems may be what you need and you shouldn't reject it out of hand because it's not in the method you chose.

A good trainer will be aware of many different ways to teach a dog how to do something. The best trainers can read their dogs and pick out the best match for that dog to teach him something. Not all of us are brilliant, but a willingness to drop something that is not working and try something else still lets us take advantage of finding the right way to teach a dog something. Over time with a particular dog, you should find that you are more likely to choose the right way to present a new concept to this dog.

Good results in obedience training require large doses of consistency, good timing, and patience. You must be consistent: use the same word for a particular command every time (e.g., don't use "Come" sometimes and "Come here" other times). You must develop a fine sense of timing when introducing new commands and later correcting behavior on learned commands. Patience is needed: losing your temper is counterproductive. Get the whole family to agree on the commands, but have only one person train the dog to minimize confusion for the dog.

Establish a daily training period, preferably just before dinner. It can be as short as twenty minutes, or longer. Establishing a routine helps.

Don't expect overnight success. It can take up to two years of consistent work, depending on the dog, for a properly trained dog. (This is where the patience comes in!)

You must praise often and unambiguously. A smile won't do it. Give abundant verbal praise, scratch your dog on the head, etc.

Try making the command word part of a praise phrase. In this case, whenever your dog is in the desired heel position, you could say something like "Good heel!" in a praising tone of voice. Note that you only give the command once but that the command word is repeated in the praise phrase for reinforcement. That seems to satisfy the objective of the proponents of repeating the command (i.e. letting the dog hear the command often) without actually repeating it as a command. Further, because it is being said when the dog is doing it right rather than during a correction the dog doesn't create any negative association with the command as the latter is likely to cause.

If you have a puppy -- don't wait! Enroll in a kindergarten puppy class once its up on its shots. Don't wait until the pup is 6 months old to start anything.

Training before "six months of age" is fine if you see the puppy having fun with these lessons. Just remember to keep the lessons short, don't loose patience when your puppy suddenly forgets everything it ever knew, and give it plenty of time just to be a puppy. In the long term, the time you spend with your puppy exploring, playing together and meeting new people is probably more important than your short "training" sessions, but both activities are very helpful.

Remember:

* Make it fun for the pup.
* Expect setbacks. Just because the pup understood what you meant yesterday, doesn't mean he'll remember it today. This means lots of repetition. Teach the basic commands: sit, stay, and come for now.

You may find it well worth your while, especially if you are new to training dogs, to attend obedience classes. Most places have local training schools. Be sure to check up on these places. Call the Better Business Bureau and your local SPCA for any specific complaints registered with them. Especially check carefully places where you ship your dog out to be trained: many of these places are suspect, because YOU must also be trained to handle your dog. Beware of advertising that claim LIFETIME warranties on the training, GUARANTEED solutions, etc. It is best for you and your dog to go through obedience training together, so that you both learn from each other.

No matter what kind of class you're looking for: from basic puppy kindergarten for your little puppy to basic obedience for an older dog to more advanced training for a dog that's already done some work, you'll want to pick the class out carefully.

First and foremost, pick out a class where you are comfortable with the methods and the trainer. If you don't start off with this footing, learning anything positive from the class simply won't happen.

Next look at the size of the class and how much time the trainer spends with each person. Ideally, the smaller the class the better, although for puppy classes you want at least four or five dogs since socialization is an important part of the class. Does the trainer allocate time outside of class for questions (either an extra several minutes before or after class or giving you her phone number for class)? What sort of guarantees do they offer? If they say your pooch will be trained in six weeks permanently, no questions asked, run do not walk away from this outfit. If, however, they offer followup help after the class is over or offer a few extra classes for specific problems after or during the class, this is a good outfit.

Check out what their policy is with aggressive dogs in class. It does happen that one of the dogs attending the class frightens and intimidates the other dogs. There should be a clause for dismissing such a dog (or better yet, going into private training with it), or having it muzzled and otherwise restrained to minimize disruption to the class.
Attention

An important aspect of obedience training is getting your dog's attention. Your dog will not perform as readily if he isn't paying attention to you. There are a number of things you can do to get his attention, and you should be sure to praise him for paying attention.

Attention goes both ways. In turn, YOU must pay close attention to your dog. Many dogs will stop being careful if they know you're not paying attention. If there's one piece of definitive advice about dog training this must be it.
Umbilical cords

Put your dog on a medium-to-short leash and tie him to your belt. Now, go about the house on your ordinary business. Do not pay attention to the dog. It will quickly learn to pay attention to you to determine when you are going to get up and walk around, or where you are going. This is an especially effective exercise with puppies and also lays a good foundation for learning to heel later. Start with short periods of time, say 15 minutes, and work up as your puppy gets older and more familiar with this exercise.
Watching

If you look up and catch your dog watching you (this is different from the staring contests mentioned above because the dog is not "staring" at you when he is watching you move around), praise him.
Food in your mouth, spitting it at your dog

An excellent exercise for teaching attention. It gets the dog to concentrate directly on your face, not your hands or pocket. Do this as a separate exercise, until your dog understands that he must watch your face. Also, DON'T let them pick up the food from the floor or ground. If you do, they will learn that they don't have to catch the treat. They can just wait and pick it up. And don't let them come back later to clean up.
Talking softly

Talk softly to your dog. He will have to pay more attention to you. This is especially effective when younger, and is a good habit to get into.
Attention as part of the exercise

Integrate attention into the exercises themselves. For example, heeling is not just keeping to your side in the proper manner, it's also *paying attention* while heeling. Demand this attention as part of the heeling exercise, and your dog's heeling ability should improve.
Corrections

You should never correct when you yourself are upset, angry or downright mad, especially at your dog. Good correction depends on timing, a keen awareness of what the dog is thinking, and quick switching between correction and praise, all of which are difficult when you are upset. Stop the exercise until you regain your equilibrium. You will have much difficulty training your dog if you continually get mad while doing it. In fact, if you always or often get mad when training your dog, someone else should train him. You will get absolutely nowhere yelling at your dog.

The dictum "don't train before 6 months of age" doesn't make any sense unless you're talking about the correction involved in formal obedience training. If you think about it, you train your dog all the time whether you realize it or not. Dogs are great at picking up your body language and tone of voice. Even if you're not trying to train them, they're "training" themselves using the clues we give them (and many "problems" are classic cases of the dogs misunderstanding their owner's signals).

If possible with a young puppy it is best to use the "correction" of distraction. When you deny the puppy something, try to replace it with a positive activity rather than just being negative and oppressive all the time. Otherwise, limit your corrections to a verbal "no."

Most dogs at some point will refuse to do something that he knows how to do. this is independent of how he has been trained. Striking out for independence appears to be a semi-universal mammalian trait, judging from the behavior of human adolescents. However, you must be prepared to enforce the idea that the dog does not really have an option about doing what you tell him to do. Otherwise the dog will increasingly choose whether or not to obey you and become unreliable. You do have to know the dog you are training and be able to tell the difference between confusion and refusal. Correcting a confused dog is quite detrimental. Learning how to tell the difference is part of being a trainer. While no one can really teach you this skill, you do have to learn it.

Always praise the dog immediately when he listens to your corrections. Again, this gives the "jekyll and hyde" feel to dealing with your dog. But it is very important to immediately praise your dog for listening to you. This helps build confidence and keeps the dogs from having that "hang-dog" look when performing.
Proofing

Proofing is a method where you make sure your dog understands a command, after you have taught the dog the command. It isn't fair to proof a dog on a command when he is still learning what it means.

For example, you teach your dog to stay. After making him stay in a relatively distraction-free environment, you step up the pressure. You throw balls up in the air and catch them, squeak toys, have someone stand near your dog and talk softly to him. If your dog gets up, gently put him back. If after doing this for a while, the dog still gets up, then you start putting him back less gently, i.e. taking your dog roughly by the collar and putting him back, escalating to picking your dog up by the collar so that his front legs come off the ground and VERY slowly putting him back in its place, escalating to picking the dog up by its skin so that him front legs come off the ground and VERY slowly putting him back. Some dogs get the idea more quickly than others; stop your correction when he stays down.

When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by throwing balls all around him, bouncing them on the ground, etc. Also, someone else should try to offer him food, make strange noises such as clapping , barking like a dog, meowing like a cat, using toys or things that make strange noises.

When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by putting him on a stay and having someone shout in a loud voice "ROVER, COME!" (do not use your dog's name), "OK", "DOWN" (if doing a sit stay). If at home, put him on a stay and go and ring the doorbell. It should take several months (6-8) to work through all of these distractions and care must be taken to not blow the dog's mind by putting him in a situation that he is not ready for or by never letting the dog "win" (i.e., successfully perform an exercise).

Always let the dog "win" on the last exercise in the session. That is, end the sessions on positive notes, with much praise. This keeps your dog interested in the work.
Using Food

The use of food in training dogs has a long and contentious history. Many people dislike the use of food, feeling that a dog should do things because YOU ask him to, not in hope of a reward. They point to dogs that will refuse to do things when they know they won't get food for it. Others advocate the use of food in training, saying that for many dogs it is the best reward to use, that the use of food is a much more humane method of teaching dogs, and that it is an excellent way to motivate a dog.

Certainly each side has some valid points. For example, the repeated use of food as a bribe will quite often result in the dog refusing to do the expected exercise without the bribe being held out. However, this is considered and incorrect usage of food by food advocates. There is a difference between bribing with food and rewarding with food. Under the latter system, the dog never knows whether or not it will get food as a result of performing the exercise; the rules of variable reinforcement mean that the dog will try harder and harder for that reward. The problem is that many folks don't know how to reward intermittently, and it's also true that rewards are more frequent while the dog is learning the exercise and taper off when the dog understands it. Many people fail to notice the dog's progress, and fall into habits, and hence into bribery.

On the other hand, not every dog becomes an enthusiastic performer for verbal praise or toys alone. With some exceptions, almost every dog will view food as a good reward and modify his behavior accordingly to get more of it.

The controversy is really rooted in more philosophical considerations than in actual performance (or not) from the use (or not) of food. Some people just plain don't like the idea of rewarding with food, and others do not mind using it.

The bottom line is that, food or not, most dogs need a reward, a motivator, in order to put on their best effort in training. And the trainer needs to understand (and observe) how to find out what the dog's best reward is and how to apply the reward most effectively.




How to House Train Your Dog in One Month

Any dog that is over 3 or 4 months of age is able to learn to hold it for a few hours in order to relieve themselves outside the house. Some dogs need to be crate trained in order to achieve this, and others do well without a crate. Often, a dog crate can be used to keep a dog confined during the night to reinforce the idea of waiting to relive himself when he is taken outside.

Instructions

1. Step 1

Take your dog outside at key points in his day as well as at other times that you think he may need to relieve himself. The key times are generally as soon as he wakes up in the morning, after eating a meal, after waking up from a nap and just before bedtime. Take the dog out a few times in between these times just to see if he needs to go. Eventually, you may not have to take him out as frequently as he learns what times of the day he will be taken out.

2. Step 2

Reward him each time he relieves himself outside. Bring a bag of treats with you each time you take him out and reward him right away. Don't wait until you get home or until you have crossed the street. Verbal praise and an immediate food reward gives him the positive reinforcement he needs to understand what he did that earned him the treat.

3. Step 3

Avoid negative reinforcement at home. If he has accidents inside, clean the area thoroughly to remove the smell. A lingering smell of urine can cause him to see it as a marked area and to urinate on the same spot again. Avoid yelling at the dog, as he may not understand what he's done wrong.

4. Step 4

Reduce the number of times you take him out over the course of the month. The first week, you may need to take him out 10 times per day or more to avoid accidents inside the house. Each week, reduce the number of times that you go out as he begins to understand that to get the treat, he must wait and relive himself once you've taken him outside. By the end of the month, you may only have to take him out about four times per day to keep him from having accidents indoors.

5. Step 5

Confine your dog to a sleeping crate at night if night accidents are a problem. Many dogs, especially puppies, like the safety of a den and sleep comfortably in a dog crate that has a towel or cushion in it. It keeps the dog confined to one small space that he will sleep in. Dogs have an instinct to relive themselves far from their sleeping area, and this prevents him from relieving himself inside it. This can help him to learn to hold it over longer periods, especially as he learns that he will be taken outside as soon as morning breaks.








How to train your dog

Training your dog is the most important part of owning your lovable pet. There is nothing worse than an untrained dog and it can cause disharmony in any household. You do not need to tolerate a dog that digs up the yard, chews up your couch, or rips the washing from the clothesline. Your dog just needs some obedience training to correct these bad habits.

When you first bring your little puppy or adult dog home, you need to bond with him or her. This is a learning period for both the owner and the dog. No training is ever straightforward and not everything will go as planned. Be prepared for the unexpected and try to avoid distractions.

Equipment Required

You will need a choke chain, or a regular collar, and a leash. A leash can be leather or a chain with a leather handle. Which one you use is up to you. A choke chain is a small length of chain where one end slips through the other and then attached to the dog lead (or leash).

For treats, I prefer to use dog food that has been cut up into very small pieces as well as some small biscuits that do not require much chewing and little digestion. I use these as rewards when he has done well.

Training your puppy

Do it in simple easy steps and for no more than fifteen minutes at a time. Keep the lessons interesting and never lose your temper when encouraging your dog to carry out a command. If the dog becomes bored, it is a good idea to stop and play with him. Otherwise, he will lose interest and not learn anything.

It is important to be consistent when training your dog. If you let him jump up one day, don't growl at him for jumping up the next day. He will not understand what he has done wrong.

Please do not let your dog sit under the table watching every mouthful of food you consume. He is likely to beg for human food and it is not a good idea to give in to him. It is best to leave your dog outside while eating. If you live in an upstairs unit, then shut him in the laundry while eating.

Some commands that your dog needs to learn include sitting on command. He also needs to learn to sit before you cross the road, before he gets a treat or gets into the car. When a dog is sitting and under control, he cannot cause any trouble to anyone.

Dogs also need to learn how to walk on a leash on your left side without pulling on the lead. Another important part of his training is to teach him to come when you call him and not at his leisure. It could save his life one day.



The "look at me" or "watch me" command

The first thing he needs to learn is to obey when you say, "look at me". This command is very hard for a puppy to learn. He needs to learn this before anything else, however, because if you do not have his attention, how is he going to learn?

If you play with him and make the training into a game, then you will keep his interest. Offer him a treat while holding it close to your face and say, "look at me". When he looks up at you, give him the treat and praise him. The tone of your voice is very important while doing this. Keep it light and happy when you praise him. When he has been naughty then lower it and be stern. He will soon learn by the tone of your voice if you are pleased with him.

Once he learns to look at you, gradually wean him off the treats and only praise him when he obeys the command. All dogs learn at different rates. Some learn quicker than others do and that is okay. Keeping it playful will help both of you enjoy the lesson.



The "sit" command

The sit command is easier for him to learn. Use the choker chain and leash, and try walking with him on your left hand side. Stop and apply slight pressure on his rear with your left hand giving the command "sit". At the same time, place your right hand under his chin and lift his head so he looks at you.

Praise him and give him a treat saying "good boy". Give a little pull on the lead and walk a short distance. Repeat the process a couple of times then say," let's play". Undo his leash and play a game with him.

It is important not to let him become bored, as he will lose interest and not enjoy his lesson.

The "heel" command

A dog of any age needs to learn to walk beside its owner. How often do you see a dog darting up the street dragging his owner after him? We need to avoid that, as depending on the size of the dog you could get hurt.

The best place to start this training is in familiar surroundings. Your own back yard is ideal since there are fewer distractions for the dog than in your Local Street or park. Personally, I prefer to use a choker chain for this training. When the owner pulls on the lead, the choker chain tightens on the dog's neck, which causes him to hesitate for a moment. At this moment, you need to give the command, "heel", and position your dog close to your left leg. Praise him and offer him a treat. Repeat several times. At the same time, remember to keep the walk enjoyable and fun.

If you walk your dog on the local streets, be sure to keep a firm hold on his lead because a dog may dash out to greet your dog. He may even see a cat and want to chase it right in front of a car; therefore, you need to be in complete control of your dog.

The "drop" command

Stand beside your dog. Start by giving him the "sit" command. Reward him when he does it. Next, use your left hand to push down on his upper back gently and give the command "drop". At the same time make a drop motion by moving your hand, palm down, to the ground in front of him. Repeat this action a few times making sure to reward and praise him when he does well.

The "stay" command

This time sit your dog beside you. Give him the "drop" command, by saying it as well as lowering your hand in front of him as before. When he achieves this, slowly walk in front of him. Hold your hand up with your palm facing him. Now say the command "stay". Gradually walk around him to your original position with him on your left side. If he stays, reward and praise him. Repeat this process until he does.

If he improves, try moving further away. Gradually increase the distance as long as he still stays. Keep praising and rewarding him with treats. It is ideal at this stage to use a longer leash if you have one.

The "come" command

To achieve this, it is best to sit your dog in front of you. You might need to use the stay command to avoid having your dog come to you before you actually call him. Take two or three steps back and bend down. Hold the treat out to the dog and give the command "Come". No dog can resist coming to get a treat. When he comes to you, praise him by giving him his treat. Again, sit the dog down and repeat the action. This time move back an extra step. You can add his name and say, "Come Spotty". Each time you do these exercises; try to get your dog to look directly at you while he waits for your command. Do not do this too long, however, since he will get bored or tired. You can always try it again later.

Eventually you want to be able to do this from 20 feet away. I suggest you do most of these exercises in your own home, at the beginning, as there will be fewer distractions. As he improves, take him to your local park and see just how well you have trained him.

The "fetch" command

Make this lesson fun for both of you by making it into a game. Run with him for a moment then stop and throw the ball as you say, "fetch". If he runs after it and picks it up, call "come" and hold out your open hand. (You might need to use the stay command to avoid having your dog come to you before you actually call him.) Reward him with a treat when he brings it to you. Repeat actions until he understands.

If your dog refuses to obey your command, walk away and try it again later. If he still refuses, give him a rest, then try again later. He will eventually respond if he wants his treat.

Punishment

Yes, he has to learn that too. It can be limited to verbal punishment. He will know he has done something wrong by the tone of your voice.

For a scolding to effective, it has to happen as soon as the dog does something wrong. Do not wait until a few minutes have passed before you punish him or he will not understand why he received a reprimand.

Avoid using physical punishment as your dog will cow down and become fearful. He may even become aggressive to the handler or perhaps to a child, so avoid this form of punishment.

Your dog and his safety

No one expects to have their dog hurt in their own back yard. However, accidents can and do happen.

Beware of the puppy chewing on an electrical cable. Cords from blinds and curtains can cause your dog to become tangled, which can result in strangulation.

The playful puppy or exuberant dog may injure them self by knocking over top-heavy items like potted plants. Do not leave dogs in cars, especially in the summer, without water. Even with windows down a bit, they can become dehydrated and die.

If you follow these simple tips, both you and your dog should have a long, healthy, and happy life together.








How to Train Your Dog... Once You Realize That He Is Not a Human

Training your dog can be a long and difficult task. If you already have or are planning on getting a dog, you need to be sure that you are completely up to the challenge. Training your dog is not a simple, one-week or one-month task – it is something that you will continually have to do, ‘til death do you part.

Here are some tips to help you train your dog:

· First of all, you must realize that your dog is not human. Therefore, you should not attribute so many human characteristics to him. For instance, your dog did not pee on the rug because he is “angry” at you – more likely, he was marking his territory or he simply needed to be let out sooner! Because our dogs are not human, we should not try to remedy their problems as though they are. We should not punish an “angry” dog by sending him to his dog carrier or try to win his affection back by filling him up with treats. Rather, we should be sure to let him outside when he needs to go outside.

· Again, dogs are not human. It is in their nature to work for their food. In other words, you should not simply give it to them without having them earn it. For instance, rather than simply giving your dog his food in the morning, take him for a long walk and then feed him. Or go out and run him around your back yard. You can even have him carry around a weighted doggie pack before you give him his food. Do not give him his food before he earns it. This may seem harsh, but it is the way that it works in the animal kingdom. Out in the wild, a dog would have to work hard, chasing down his food, before he could get it, and sometimes he would not get it and would have to wait until the next day for a meal.

· It is important to be consistent! You cannot simply make your dog work for his food three days out of a week and then simply give it to him the other four. Owning and caring for a dog is a full-time job.

· Make sure that your dog understands who is the pack leader. (In case you are wondering, the pack leader should be you!). You will both get along much more easily if you make it clear from the onset that he is the subservient one in the relationship and that you are the one who gives him his food, etc.

· A system of rewards and punishments can be used to train dogs. The key is, you need to reward or punish them immediately, otherwise they may not understand what the reward/punishment is for. For instance, when you take your dog outside and he pees outside, immediately give him a treat. If, on the other hand, you let him outside, then he pees, then he frolics and chases a bird, and then you give him a treat when he comes back in, he may connect the treat to going outside, rather than for peeing outside.

· Also, a reward system works best if it is not always expected. In other words, if you give your dog a treat every single time he pees outside, it will not be as effective as if you only give it to him some of the time (and it makes it a lot easier for you, too). Otherwise, in the former reward system, if you miss a few days, your dog may start peeing inside again. In the latter situation, your dog will be used to not getting a treat for a few days, but will still be expecting one in the future if he continually goes pee outside.

· Learn about your dog breed. Different dog breeds react differently to different situations – they are bred for different purposes, and they have different capabilities. Make sure that you know as much about your own dog breed as possible so that you know how best to train your dog.

As you can hopefully realize, training a dog can be a lot of work, and only those who are up to the work should consider owning a dog. Remember, the more time that you spend working with your dog, the better your dog is going to work with you. Also, realize that your dog is not human – this can be a hard concept to grasp, but the sooner you do, the better your relationship with your dog will be.


If You Love Your Dog, Crate Train!

When it comes to kennel (or crate) training, some dog owners have tried and given up, others think it's cruel, and yet others just haven't given the idea any thought. But crate training is a very practical tool and, when used correctly, is one of the best ways to promote emotionally healthy dogs. Here's what you need to know to have a happier, healthier pet for the whole family.

Let's start with examining the natural instincts of canines. Unlike humans, who drool over soaring, vaulted ceilings and thousands of square footage, canines prefer their homes to be small, cozy dens. It provides protection from predators and warmth in winter months. In fact, a den is crucial for a dog's survival in the wild. A dog that sleeps out in the open becomes easy prey and all dog's know this--that's why they instinctually long for a den. When inside the crate, dogs spend most of the time sleeping. This isn't because they are bored, but because dogs need about 13 hours of sleep per day to function properly. They will be content to get most of that sleep done in their kennel, looking forward to play time when the family returns home. So remember: even though humans deplore the idea of being kept in a cage-like enclosure, dogs will always prefer them.

In every class I teach, most people go home fully intent on crate training but usually give up within the first two or three days. Why? Because their puppy is whining and crying and scratching at the kennel door all night long and they desperately want some sleep. As a result, they toss this wonderful training tool out the window. I find it fascinating that the same people who have the endurance to get through months and months with a newborn baby cannot get through one week of crate training. And that's really all it takes. Within one week, your puppy should be completely acclimated to its kennel. Even though the puppy's instincts long for a den, we still have to understand that this particular den is foreign to them. When the puppy was born, it was born inside its mother's den. That is the den they have come to know and love. So when we take a dog from its mother's den and introduce it to a new one, there has to be a transition period. There are several ways to make this transition period as quick and painless as possible:

1) When you purchase your puppy, bring him home in the morning and plan to spend all day with him. This will give him the most amount of time to get used to his surroundings before going into his kennel at night. Never bring a new puppy home in the evening. He won't have time to get to know you and will be extremely lonely, scared, and will cry for his mother (quite possibly all night long).

2) Some puppies will act depressed on the first day away from their mother and siblings, while others seem to fit in with their new family immediately. Either way, you must begin crate training on the day you bring your puppy home. Start by giving him his meals inside the kennel. Place his bowl of food on the far side, opposite of the door. You may have to coax him into the kennel, but once he's inside, praise him and love on him. Repeat the coaxing and praising until he feels comfortable going inside the kennel. When coaxing him, give the kennel command of your choice, "Go kennel," or "Go to your room," or "Kennel up." Once he is kennel trained, all you'll have to do is point to the kennel and give the command and he should go right in, eliminating the need to chase him down when you're already late for work.

3) When you have a play session, try tossing the puppy's toy into the kennel a few, random times to get him used to the kennel as a fun place to be. Also, if you've started obedience training, toss the puppy's reward treat into his kennel when he does something good. He'll begin to attach praise and good behavior with his kennel.

4) Never use the kennel as punishment. The kennel should always be a place of comfort and safety. If you need to remove your dog from the rest of the pack (your family), pick a small room like the laundry room or a spare bathroom. It's okay for the dog to associate discipline with one of these rooms, but never his kennel.

5) When first starting out, always keep the kennel in the same room as you. If you're in the kitchen most of the day, bring the kennel in there. If your whole family is in the living room enjoying a movie, bring the kennel in there. Soon, your dog will begin to prefer hanging out in his kennel rather than the floor or the couch. My dog spends most of his nap time in his kennel. When he's ready to sleep, he trots back to his kennel, opens the door himself, climbs inside and snoozes until I call him. Everyone thinks he's strange for doing so, but really, he's just doing what his instincts tell him.

6) Always implement tough love. If your dog whines, cries, or scratches, it's not because he is deathly afraid or will die if you leave him in his kennel over night. He whines because he knows you will come to his rescue and let him out. Never release your dog from his kennel unless he is perfectly quiet. This will teach him that whining and crying get him nowhere, resulting in quiet nights for you and your family. If you succumb to the whining and let your dog out, this only shows him that he is actually the teacher--and he's just taught you to open the crate when he whines! Remember, the alpha dog (that would be you) never takes orders from the other pack members. By following your dog's orders, you will ultimately have a confused and unruly dog on your hands--he'll be the boss of some things, but not of others, and this confusion will last his entire life as he struggles to find a balance. It's crucial that you remain the alpha for the duration of your dog's life. Then he will know his place and feel comfortable and happy to romp around within his understood boundaries.

7) With puppies, try putting a hot water bottle under the blankets inside the kennel. This helps to mimic the warmth of the litter that your puppy is used to. A cold puppy is a lonely puppy. Warmth helps him fall asleep feeling safe. Try adding a few stuffed animals around him too. This will also help mimic the litter. You need not do this if you are adopting an older dog, as they should be used to sleeping away from the litter. Also, for the first few nights, keep the kennel right next to your bed so the puppy doesn't feel completely isolated. I usually set the kennel on a table so it is the same level as my bed--this way, the dog can see me and feel as though he is sleeping with his pack. After the first week, I move the kennel to the floor beside the bed. Then, gradually, I begin to move the kennel away from the bed until it is in the spot where it will remain most nights.

One of the most important rules of crate training is to never give up! Even if you've tried everything and your dog is still scared of the kennel or still whines, keep trying. If you do, here are some of the benefits you'll receive:

Peace of mind. You'll always know your dog is safe when he is in his kennel. A dog that is free to roam about the house will ultimately get into something at some point. Our homes are not akin to the wild; they are, at times, more dangerous and provide a myriad of ways your dog can harm himself. He could turn over a trash can and scarf down chicken bones or greasy paper towels, resulting in more trips to the vet (and a huge mess to clean when you get home). He may find your shoes irresistible and end up ruining several pairs or swallowing shoe laces. He may even urinate or throw up on one of your favorite rugs. I've known dogs to rip up throw pillows and even scratch holes in doors and window screens. But when confined to a kennel, a dog will spend most of his time sleeping soundly in a perfectly safe environment.

Structure. Crate training provides structured sleep patterns. For those of you who have children, you know the benefits of scheduled sleep. Your dog needs at least 13 hours of sleep every day to function the way nature intended. Structured sleep may result in fewer trips to the vet and a longer life for your pet.

Balance. If you provide safety and structure for your pet, you are demonstrating good alpha leadership. Your dog will never need to wonder who his master is and he will have a balanced conscience. Think of the most well-behaved dog you know. He didn't become that way on his own, no matter what breed he is. Now think of his owner. When the dog is with his owner, have you ever noticed a kind of "harmony" between them? If so, this is because the owner simply demonstrates proper alpha leadership by providing balance. The dog always knows his place and never has to try his owner's patience or test him. He simply knows he can't get away with bad behavior so he just doesn't attempt it. For example: I bring my dog to work with me. He has a kennel at the office and I will make sure that he gets several hours of nap time in his kennel each day, even though I'm right beside him. I notice huge changes in his behavior if I forget and leave him out in the office all day without nap time inside the kennel. He becomes testy and disobedient! Yet when I make sure to keep his daily routine of kennel time, he is the most obedient and satisfied pooch around. It's such a small act, but it goes a long way.

Savings. A healthy dog is an inexpensive dog. Yes, some dogs are born with conditions that require more vet bills than others, but keeping your dog away from household dangers will keep money in the bank.

Faster house-breaking. Dogs that are crate trained are generally house-broken faster than those that are not. This is because the crate mimics den life. In the mother's den, as she is potty-training her pups, she never allows them to soil their living quarters. She nudges them outside the den several times per day so they can urinate. Dogs only soil their crates when they are very young and do not yet have proper control, if they are ill, or if they are kept in the crate far too long. Other than that, they always prefer to urinate outside. If you get into the routine of taking your pet outside right before and directly after they are in their kennel, you'll have fewer accidents, fewer messes to clean, and a faster house-breaking. Fact: dogs that are left outside the crate have eliminated somewhere in the house. And because his owners weren't there to supervise, that spot will ultimately go unnoticed. The problem is, the dog will continue to soil in the same spot year after year because they will keep trying to cover the scent resulting in a house that reeks of ammonia. Do yourself a favor and crate train. You will be able to supervise your dog's elimination. And if your dog soils his crate, it's very simple to clean. Simply wash the bedding and wipe out the removable tray in the kennel. You might have to give your puppy a bath afterwards as well.

Relaxing travel. A dog that is crate trained is a lovely traveling companion. Inside his crate, he will feel safe and will sometimes even sleep during the entire journey. This way, you won't have a dog climbing onto your lap while you're driving and he won't be tempted to chew on the upholstery. Also, most hotels will welcome dogs if they are crate trained, saving you high-priced boarding costs.

Lastly, here are some guidelines to follow when crate training:

- Crates come in all different shapes and sizes. Ask your breeder, vet, or someone at your local pet store what size is appropriate for your breed. A good rule of thumb is that the crate should be big enough that your dog (when fully grown) can stand up and turn around. It shouldn't be so big that your dog can romp or play inside. Crates usually cost anywhere from 30 to 150 dollars. But this one-time cost is nothing compared to what you might spend on damage caused by a dog that is not crate trained.

- Always keep fresh water in the crate. A hamster or rabbit bottle works much better than an open bowl that can be turned over.

- Only keep safe toys inside the crate. If your dog likes to tear apart stuffed animals, do not leave a stuffed animal inside the crate. This may be a choking hazard. Most dogs simply sleep inside their kennels and they do not play, so toys are not necessary.

- Keep the bottom of the crate lined with a towel, pad, or thin blanket. This will help cushion their elbows, keep them warm, and help to soak up accidents, making it easier to clean.

- Always take your dog outside and make sure he urinates before going into the kennel. Then, when it is time to release the dog, take him directly outside again. Never dawdle once the dog has been released, as this could result in an accident on the floor while you're searching for your shoes.

- Never feed your dog right before he goes into the kennel. A good rule to follow is that your dog's feeding time should be right after your family finishes supper. This way, the dog mimics the pack and eats right after they do and then has the rest of the evening to digest. He should be able to eliminate that same evening right before he goes into the kennel for the night.

- A dog should never spend more than 6 hours a day in his crate, except overnight. I believe that if a family must spend over 8 hours a day away from home, only to see their dog for a few hours every evening, they should not be dog owners. Dogs are pack animals and no matter what we do, they will always be pack animals, craving constant companionship. To separate them from pack life and expect them to thrive happily alone for so many hours a day is far more cruel than the method of crate training. If you must own a dog, regardless of this fact, consider owning two or three. At least the dogs will not be alone for most of their lives. A dog left isolated from its pack will demonstrate some or all of the following behaviors: nervousness, shaking, cowardice, loss of hair, chewing on its paws until they are raw, anxiety, disobedience, loss of bladder and bowel control, dehydration, exhaustion from barking all day long, and vomiting. If you have two or three dogs, you may see the same benefits of crate training by simply confining your pets to their own room during the day. A laundry room or spare bathroom works great. Provide food and water, comfy dog beds, and some newspaper on the floor incase of accidents. Make sure there are no hazards in the room like trash cans, and keep items like laundry detergent, dryer sheets, and cleaning products somewhere safe.

- After a few years, your dog should be able to "graduate" from over night crate training. Mine is two and a half years old, and he is just now able to sleep outside of the crate in our bedroom. You will know your dog is ready when he is successfully house-broken and shows independence in his sleeping locations. As dogs get older, they are more sensitive to temperature and may switch from sleeping on a warm fleece to sleeping on a cool, wooden floor several times during the night. Maintaining a satisfying temperature for your dog is difficult inside the crate. When this is apparent, allow your dog to sleep outside of the kennel, but close the door to your bedroom so he cannot roam about the entire house. Give him a special bed to lay on beside your bed and remember to take him outside the first thing in the morning. Continue to crate train when you leave the house.

- I have known a few dogs to "graduate" from daytime crate training as well. These are usually guard dogs, or ward dogs. There is a difference between a guard dog and what I call a "ward" dog. A guard dog is specifically trained to guard the house from intruders whereas a "ward" dog will ward off strangers by means of its large size and intimidating bark. Just because you have a German Shepherd doesn't mean he is a trained guard dog. I owned a German Shepherd that was afraid of squeaky toys--she would not have stopped a determined intruder. But she did have a very intimidating bark and may have warded off some skulking teenagers if necessary. A guard or ward dog in a crate does not do much good, so if you purposefully bought a guard or ward dog, he should graduate within two years. When your dog graduates from day time crate training, particular steps should be taken to make sure your home is free of dangerous objects. Just like you would "baby-proof" your house, you must "dog-proof" it too. But, this is only recommended for guard or ward dogs--not for common pets. I would still recommend encouraging your dog to nap in his kennel. Simply remove the kennel door. He can resort to his kennel for nap times whether you're home or away and still have the ability to leave the kennel if he hears a suspicious noise.

I hope I have convinced some of you to implement crate training with your pets. It is one of the most rewarding methods of training and you will benefit from it for years to come.